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WORLD OF DOGS: DOG BREEDS

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DOG ACTIVITIES

Great Activities You Can Enjoy With Your Dog

Here is an introduction to some great things people do with their dogs. Most activities welcome all dogs, whether purebred or of mixed breed heritage. Some of these activities are classed as "working dog" activities, but are also done on a recreational basis, or as a public service. Some dog activities are purely recreational in nature, while others are competitive dog sports. Many of these activities may be new to you. I have chosen my links based upon how welcoming they are to the merely curious.

People who play with their dog, stay with their dog.

Why do dog activities matter? Why promote them? Dog activities matter because they help dogs keep their homes.

When people and dogs do things together it is good news all around. Many of these activities provide the structure that helps people learn to better communicate with their dogs. The dogs have a better opportunity to learn good manners. That makes them easier to live with and less likely to be given up. The activities help people get in touch with one another to share information. That also helps people to learn about dogs, to avoid problems, and to solve them in a healthy way. The activities provide exercise in a fun way that boosts the relationship. The exercise, in turn, reduces boredom. A dog that exercises with its human is less likely to have behavior problems. A wonderful side benefit is that these activities can be a mental boost for humans and dogs alike.

Do we need lessons on having fun with our dogs?

All the evidence is, yes, we need to learn how to have fun with our dogs. Too many people just don't know how much fun their dog can be. Their relationship is one way; they haven't learned to communicate. They need help learning how to have fun with their dog. When they enjoy their dog they are motivated to work through problems, to solve them instead of giving up on the dog.

And yes, your mutt can play too.

The big surprise to me was how many activities I can do with my mixed breed dogs. And the variety of sports, games, and just plain good times was also an eye opener. Many of the activities listed here will be new to you. Some of them you may have seen on TV, but never thought of getting involved in yourself. Well plunge right in and explore. You and your dog will be glad you did.

Fun things to do with your dog: Games, Sports and Just Good Fun

Agility - in, out, over and through this sport is all about working as a team
Animal Assisted Activities and Animal Assisted Therapy - the warm head of a friendly pet can soothe a lonely heart
Bikejoring - some dogs love to run. Adding the responsibility of teamwork adds to the fun.
Canicross - dog powered running for those who want to share their running goals with their best friend
Carting - channel the desire to pull into harness work that lets the dog feel useful and skilled
Coursing and racing - root instinct drives the joy of running with purpose in coursing and racing
Day trips and vacations - the dogs need not be left behind, bring them along for even more fun
Disc Dog or Flying Disc - if there was ever meaning to jump for joy this is it, jumping with achievement
Dock Jumping or Dock Diving - dogs who excel in this sport are love to show they can do it further and better
Dog Camps - Activity Sampler - too many choices? take a vacation with your dog and sample a variety
Dog Parks and Dog Walks: Socialization and Off-leash Play - a joy for the social dog, think tot lot
Dog Scootering - some dogs love to run. Adding the responsibility of teamwork adds to the fun.
Earthdog Trials - instinct, drive, and flying dirt - what more could an earthdog want
Flyball - excitement, speed, and focus, a sport for dogs driven to do it faster
Flygility - racing and teamwork to build confidence and a sense of belonging
Games - the most basic of interactions, fun ways of practicing skills of hunting, fetching, working together
Herding - it's all about the dog's instinct and desire to control and direct movement for the pack leader
Hiking, Backpacking and Dog Walks - sharing our quiet moments, our contemplations is the essence of being a pack
Hunt and Field Trials - working as a team is what drives these dogs
Kids and Dogs - dogs and kids can be a wonderful pairing with a little learning to keep it safe and fun
Mushing - for dogs who love to pull and people who want to let them
Musical Freestyle - the ultimate in teamwork is working with rhythm and coordination
Obedience - precision, focus and a great activity for perfectionist dogs, those who love to get it exactly right
Performance Art (Tricks) - curiosity and a willingness to try new things makes this fun
Pet Facilitated Therapy - for the dog who loves attention what better way to get it than visiting people in need
Precision Drill Teams - the excitement of success, of meeting a challenge and being a part of the team
Pulling - great for dogs who love to pull, and people who want to let them
Racing - for the dogs who love not just running but being faster than the next one
Rally Obedience - more focus on teamwork, less focus on precision, fun and relaxed for human and dog
Ring Sport - a sport that says "I can be a contributing member of the family" Some dogs thrive on responsibility
Rollerblade - a fun way for dogs and humans to share exercise and fresh air
Schutzhund - tracking, obedience, protection, schutzhund is all about what a well rounded dog is all about
Search and Rescue - for some making a difference is important, that includes dogs, they know it matters
Skijoring
Sledding
Sniffer Dog
Stock Dog Trials
Tracking
Visiting Pets
Water Work
Weight Pull

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Living With A Dog - Dogs and Behaviors




Dogs, like any other pet, have certain types of behaviors that are natural and even desirable. Unfortunately there are also some behaviors that become problematic and even potentially dangerous. Teaching your dog at an early age how to play and interact or socialize with people, pets and children is a great way to prevent any negative behaviors from becoming a problem.
Puppies naturally bite and chew as they hit the stage of teething. For most breeds this happens between about four to five months of age, and the behaviors can continue until they reach a year. Some dogs continue to chew and bite as they get older, usually because bad habits have been allowed to form. Be prepared for teething, chewing and biting, and provide a wide selection of chew toys. Puppies may also not realize that biting and chewing is painful and need to be told, with a loud “Ouch” or “No”, when they bite and cause pain. Their mother and littermates usually teach puppies this, as they will yelp when bitten too hard. Puppies removed from the litter early do not always have this experience and need to be taught by their human caregivers.

When a puppy bites or chews, immediately the “Ouch” or “No” should be said, followed by the substitution of a chew toy. The puppy or dog should then be rewarded with praise for chewing or biting the toy.

Do you recognize one or more of these problems in your dog or puppy?
Many people have found help with the dog training package SitStayFetch. We've looked at a number of the dog training programs available on Internet and this is probably the most complete. It's easy to follow because it has lots of illustrations and step-by-step instructions, and if you need a little more help, you can send an email to the SitStayFetch team (there's one free consultation included in the price). Just in case you're not completely sure, you get a 60-day money-back guarantee, and you can always sign up for their free dog training newsletter before you make up your mind. If you'd like to visit the SitStayFetch site, just click here.



House training

House training a puppy or dog is not necessarily a challenge, nor does it have to be traumatic for the owners (or the dogs). Crate training is a wonderful strategy that is quick, effective, and prevents soiling of the carpet or living area. Immediately after eating or drinking the puppy is placed in the crate. The crate should be the appropriate size, and in an area where the puppy can still see people and not feel punished or isolated. Toys and a soft blanket should be in the crate at all times.

About 15 minutes after eating, take the puppy out of the crate and take them outside and place them in the area you wish them to use as a restroom area. If the puppy does urinate or defecate, praise them and bring them back into the house for some attention. If they do not, return them to the crate for another 5 minutes, and try again. Repeat the process until the dog relieves itself. Follow with lots of praise and attention. Since puppies and dogs are clean and do not like to soil their “den” areas, they will learn control. Be sure to take the puppy or dog out regularly, though, as they can become very stressed if not given proper opportunity to get outside.

Do you want to see our Directory of Doggie Sites?
Visit the Complete Dog Website Directory



Digging

Some breeds, especially the terrier breeds, are dogs that were bred to hunt and dig. If you have a terrier breed, one of the best options is to prepare a digging area in the yard and teach the dog to dig there. Small bones and toys can be hidden in the dirt to teach the dog to dig in this area only. Reward “correct digging” and make other areas less desirable to dig in. Dogs generally don’t enjoy digging in wet areas so filling up holes with water can detract from digging. A fine mesh just under the surface of the ground can also be effective.

Providing lots of toys and exercise is one of the best ways to keep digging dogs busy. Often dogs dig or bite and chew out of boredom, so balls, sticks, and even other dogs to play with during the day is often enough to provide a distraction.

There are many professional trainers and obedience classes that can help dog owners understand the reasons behind some of the more difficult to correct behaviors that their dogs may exhibit. Veterinarians can also give excellent advice and help with understanding your dog’s habits and behaviour

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DOG TRAINING

DOG CARE

Dogs and humans have been best friends for long. While dogs give unconditional love, loyalty and friendship to their owners, the owners are, in turn, responsible for their proper care, food and water, shelter, safety, regular veterinary care and exercise. In fact, if you do not undertake proper care of your dog, it is not only likely to suffer from physical problems, but behavioral problems as well. In this context, there are some dog-care basics that you need to follow. In order to help you out in the task, we have listed a number of dog caring tips, in the lines below.

How To Care For Dogs
Collar your dog and attach an ID to it, with the dog's name, your name, address, and telephone number written on it. The ID will prove to be a great help if, and when, your dog ends up getting lost. Through the information provided on the ID, someone will able to bring your pet safely back to your home.
Bathing your dog at regular intervals is necessary. However, giving it a bath on an exceedingly frequent basis can dry out its skin and coat and result in skin infections. The best bet would be to bathe your dog once in a month. In case it gets too dirty in-between, rub it with a damp towel or wash just the paws.
While bathing the dog frequently is not advisable, you should definitely groom it on a daily basis. Move a brush or comb through the hair of your dog, ensuring that its coat remains smooth and free of tangles. Grooming of a dog can be started when it is 3-4 months old and continues throughout its life.
It is necessary to undertake a proper physical examination of your dog on a monthly basis. Check the pad of its feet for any injuries and also undertake an oral examination of its mouth. At the same time, make sure to keep its ears as well as teeth clean. You need to take your dog for regular veterinarian check-ups as well, say every 2-3 months.
One of the main points that you need to keep in mind, while taking care of your dog, comprises of its diet. Remember, a nutritionally balanced diet, with constant access to fresh water, is as good for your dog as it is for you. Before deciding on the proper diet for your dog, it is advisable to consult a veterinary doctor.
If you want your dog to remain fit and healthy, then you need to make sure that it gets a lot of exercise. Keeping its busy physically will also help keep behavioral problems at bay. You can take him for walk twice a day or play with him. In this context, remember that the level of exercise that your dog should get depends upon its breed and age.
While some people prefer to keep their dog free throughout the day, others prefer to keep it tied for majority of the time. It is advisable not to keep your dog constantly tied up, as this will lead to boredom and result in bad temper of the dog as well. As much as possible, keep your dog free of the leash.
If you do not want to breed your dog, get it neutered, after consulting a veterinary doctor. It will help the dog live longer, be healthier and have fewer behavior problems. You should also get your dogs vaccinated against rabies and other diseases. It is necessary to ensure the health of your dog as well as those who come in contact with it.
You need to provide proper shelter for your dog, mainly in the form of a dog house (and fence yard, in case of large and active dogs). However, most of the dogs crave companionship and do not like to be alone for long periods. So, try to spend as much time with your dog as possible and make it go into the dog house at night only.

PUPPIES

Puppy care and training



Feeding

What food

Choose a dry food intended specifically for puppies, avoiding generic foods and those that sell for unusually low prices. We suggest brand name puppy food because it is impossible to distinguish good dog food from poor dog food simply by looking at the ingredient list on the label. Many things that owners look for, such as high protein levels and extra vitamins, are as likely to be harmful than helpful. For example, overfeeding and over supplementation are factors contributing to hip dysplasia. If you have a large-breed puppy, purchase "large breed" puppy food. The actual formula is different, not just the the kibble size, and is better for very rapidly growing puppies.

How often

Offer food to young puppies three times a day. If your puppy isn't hungry that often, reduce the frequency. After ten or twelve weeks of age, feed twice a day. Even adult dogs should have their food split into morning and evening feedings. When fed once a day dogs become overly hungry and are more likely to overeat at mealtime.
Let your puppy eat as much as she wants in fifteen minutes and then pick up the food dish. Having food continually available encourages overeating, and chubby puppies are more likely to have hip dysplasia and weight problems later in life. Also, because free-fed puppies never get very hungry, they don't enjoy their food unless given special treats. The combination of special treats and freely available food encourages them to become bored, overweight and picky.

People food

Do not give people food. If you start with a balanced diet and add goodies from the table, you won't have a balanced diet anymore, and your puppy will have more digestive trouble. Treats that are reasonably balanced, such as Milk Bone Biscuits are OK, but since they are not really all that great nutritionally, don't let them become an important part of the diet. Canned puppy food is perfectly all right, but we usually suggest feeding dry food because it is cheaper, easier to use, and better for the teeth.

Shots

Between six and sixteen weeks of age, puppies lose the disease protection they received from their mothers and become able to form their own immunity to disease. Unfortunately, we never know when this will happen, so there is often a brief period when puppies have lost the disease protection they received from their mothers but have not yet developed strong immunity of their own. Fortunately, new vaccines for distemper and parvovirus are much more effective than what we had even two or three years ago, and eliminate much of this problem. Also, since the new vaccines work better we don't have to give as many, which saves money.
Until your puppy is four or five months old, try to prevent contact with stray dogs or sick dogs. Avoid boarding your puppy or taking her places like highway rest stops where lots of other dogs go to the bathroom.

Distemper

When we say "distemper shot" we are talking about a combination vaccine (DAP) which protects against a group of diseases:

Infectious canine distemper (ICD) is a highly infectious viral disease that attacks the lungs and affects the brain and spinal cord in somewhat the same way polio affects people.

Canine adenovirus type 2 (CAV-2) is a respiratory virus that causes a severe form of "kennel cough".

Canine parvovirus (CPV) attacks the lining of the intestinal tract, and in very young puppies, damages the heart. It remains our most common fatal infectious disease and is the most difficult to protect against. Dobermans, rottweilers and boxer or bulldog type dogs are especially susceptible.

Leptospirosis

Causes kidney and liver damage. The disease can affect any mammal, including people, and is spread by urine contamination from infected animals such as raccoons, opossums, rats, coyotes, foxes or other dogs. The newer leptospirosis vaccine protect against four varieties of the disease. We do not recommend using the old Distemper/Lepto vaccines that protect against only two varieties of Leptospirosis because they don't work against the type of Leptospirosis seen most frequently in our area.

Rabies

Spread by animal bites or through the saliva of an infected animal, rabies is always fatal. Because infected pets can give the disease to people, rabies immunization is something you don't want to ignore.
Rabies shots are started at sixteen weeks of age, boostered a year later, and every one to three years after that, depending on local laws and your veterinarian's recommendation. Unvaccinated dogs that come into close contact with a skunk must be quarantined or put to sleep. Vaccinated dogs that have skunk contact should be given a rabies booster as soon as possible, regardless of when they were last immunized.

Lyme disease

Spread by ticks, Lyme Disease has become a significant human health problem in El Dorado County, but because the disease is difficult and expensive to diagnose with certainty, there have been few proven cases in dogs. When we suspect Lyme disease, we treat with antibiotics. The dogs usually get better and we are seldom certain whether the condition being treated was Lyme disease or something else.
Dogs that roam in brushy areas and get lots of ticks should be vaccinated. Those restricted to their own immediate area and never get ticks probably don't need it. Immunization is given as an initial series of two injections three weeks apart followed by an annual booster.

Bordetella

Bordetella, a common cause of "kennel cough", is a severe but rarely fatal respiratory disease. Because it spreads through the air in confined areas, kennel cough is common even in clean, well run boarding kennels. If your dog will be at the groomer's frequently or periodically left at a kennel, it is wise to protect against the disease. Most boarding kennels require it. For dogs that don't need year 'round protection, the best time to administer the vaccine is two to four weeks before going to the kennel.

Worms

Roundworms & Hookworms

Heartguard Plus and Interceptor, two new combination heartworm medications, also kill the intestinal worms common in our area. By using either of these products, we eliminate the need for routine fecal examinations and separate worming medications. However, if your puppy has persistent diarrhea please bring in a small fecal sample to check for other less-common parasites.

Tapeworms

If you see little short white worms (1/2 inch long or less), these are probably tapeworm segments. When the segments dry they look like grains of brown rice and may stick to your dog's hair. If you see anything like this, let us know and we will dispense medicine to use at home. Prescription tapeworm drugs are extremely effective, very safe, and cause no discomfort whatever. Non prescription tapeworm medications don't work very well and often cause intestinal cramps and diarrhea.
Before dispensing medication, we need to know your dog's weight. If he is not extremely small or too large to lift, you can be sufficiently accurate by weighing yourself with and without the dog. Otherwise, bring him along. We will weigh him and set up the prescription when you come in.

Heartworms

Because of a mosquito species that lives in oak trees at our elevation, the Sierra foothills of Northern California have a serious heartworm problem-worse than just about anywhere else in the Western United States. In 1972, approximately one fourth of all heartworm cases reported in California were diagnosed at Placerville Veterinary Clinic. In our area, dogs that don't receive prevention medicine, especially if they sleep outdoors, will probably get heartworms.
If we discover the problem in time, heartworms can be eliminated, but treatment is difficult, dangerous, and expensive. And even with treatment, heartworms cause permanent damage. Although the treatment isn't nearly as dangerous as many people seem to believe, regular testing followed by treatment when needed is not a reasonable alternative to prevention.

Heartworm prevention

We recommend Interceptor Chewable Tablets, because they taste good and need to be given only once a month. In addition, Interceptor kills hookworms, whipworms and roundworms, eliminating the need for separate worming medications and routine fecal examinations. It is important to use Interceptor every month without fail.

Heartworm testing

Dogs with heartworm disease ordinarily have adult male and female worms living in the heart, and microscopic baby heartworms throughout the bloodstream. Baby heartworms become adults only after living in a mosquito and then getting into another dog when it is bitten by the mosquito.

Because we cannot detect heartworms until about six months after infection, we never know for sure if puppies already have heartworms when we start them on prevention medication. Although this is a concern, the risk of puppyhood infection is small, and we can safely wait to perform an initial heartworm test until about fifteen months of age, when rabies and distemper booster vaccinations are given. After that, we encourage you to test every two years to protect against the small possibility that a dose has been missed, or the extremely small possibility that the medicine isn't working.

Training

House Training

Puppies have a strong natural instinct to avoid soiling their own area. If you are consistent and patient, this natural urge for cleanliness makes house training fairly easy. You can begin training any time after five weeks of age. A little extra effort and patience in puppyhood will make the difference later on between a happy, cooperative pet and one that causes problems for you.

Establish a teacher-learner relationship

Use two types of rewards-praise and petting. When your puppy asks for attention, you probably respond by petting, which is only natural. Begin using these requests to show that you are the teacher and your puppy is the learner. It may sound silly but it's important to establish this relationship early in puppyhood.

Each time your puppy asks to be petted, respond by holding your hand about a foot above his nose and saying, "Rover (substitute your dog's name), sit." Move your hand back over his ears as you speak. This makes him look up, which is the first part of sitting. Keep repeating "good sit" until he sits. Then pet him on the throat and chest with your other hand for a few seconds as you repeat the praise. If not successful at first, repeat the procedure. When your dog sits from five to ten seconds, release him from the command by saying "OK", then pet and praise him again. Gradually increase the sitting time until you have reached one or two minutes before you say "OK". Be sure everyone who lives with the pet follows this procedure.

Consistent treatment from the whole family makes for a better adjusted, happier pet. Insist that your pet earn praise.

Teaching where to go

At first, feed at least three times a day. All dogs do not have the same digestive rates-you may need to feed your puppy as often as five times a day in order to avoid overloading his system and causing loose, difficult-to-control bowel movements. When you find the right schedule, the result is a dog that eats and then has a bowel movement within a few minutes.

Feed indoors. Remember, dogs do not like to eliminate where they eat. If your dog is urinating or defecating in a certain area, try feeding him right at that spot (after clean up, of course.)

Right after your dog finishes eating, chase him out good naturedly to his toilet area, ahead of you if possible. Then let him sniff around for a good spot. Do not confuse things by urging him to go. After he goes to the bathroom, crouch down and point at the urine or fecal matter and say "good dog". Look right at the stuff, not at the dog. If your dog sniffs it, praise and pet him enthusiastically.

Take your puppy outside

After waking up, even from a nap
After extreme excitement
After drinking water
After prolonged chewing on a toy, etc.
If he starts sniffing around the house for a good spot

In about four days your pup should automatically head for his proper place after meals or whenever the urge strikes. If it takes longer, be patient.

After this stage of house training, your puppy knows where to go, but not when to go. Do not try to teach self control (the "when" part) until you can be sure he will always head for the door when it's time to go.

Teaching when to go

To teach self control, you must keep feeding times consistent. Don't feed at 7:30 a.m. on week days and then sleep in on Sunday--you'll ruin the whole program. Dogs can control their urine for as long as thirteen hours when they need to. To teach self control, you should try to let your dog outdoors only at times when you are ordinarily home to do so. Whenever you see signs that your pup wants to go to the bathroom during the forbidden hours, try to distract him by tossing a ball, playing with a toy or doing any activity that will take his mind off the urge.

If possible, have your puppy sleep in a room with people. Because he will be inclined to tune into your sleeping times, there will be fewer accidents and less night time disturbance. Given a little blanket as a bed, most puppies soon learn to sleep through the entire night.

How to deal with mistakes

Old fashioned house training methods tell us to grab the puppy, show him the mess and punish him. This is not necessary and probably harmful. Instead, if you discover an accident, just say "ugh" disgustedly and whisk puppy out to his proper toilet area. Leave him there while you clean up the mess. Make sure he cannot see you cleaning up. Strangely, many dogs find it rewarding to watch their owner picking up stools or cleaning urine, and often leave another such gift as soon as they can. Because puppies seem to enjoy this game, it is a good idea to have them watch you clean up after they go to the bathroom in the correct place.

To discourage repeat visits, accidents must be cleaned up well enough to completely eliminate odor. After blotting and cleaning as best you can with paper towels, soak the stained area with an enzymatic cleaner. Let it remain on the stain 30 minutes or longer, blot up the liquid, and if still necessary, use regular rug cleaner afterwards. To work properly, the enzyme cleaner must be used before using regular rug cleaner.

Puppy's Place in the Family

The reason dogs are such good pets and fit so well into human society is that they are social animals by nature. Their greatest psychological need is to be part of a group. Whether it's a family of just you and puppy, or a boisterous household full of children and pets, in order to be happy your new puppy must feel secure about her place in the group.

If you watch puppies at play, you will see a lot of growling and tussling. There is more to this play fighting than meets the eye. Those little guys are already deciding who is going to be "top dog". Whether you realize it or not, something very much like this play fighting is happening at home between your puppy and the rest of the family.

To be confident and secure what puppies need most is a master they can depend on. For your dog to have a happy life and be a pleasure to own, at least one person in the family must become such a master. Dogs have no mental concept of "friends and equals". Somebody has to be boss. Assertive puppies will grow up trying to be boss, which won't make either one of you happy. A submissive puppy may spend its entire life fretting and worrying, never sure what is expected. Everything usually works out just fine automatically--puppies find their place in the family without much trouble and everyone is happy with the arrangement. If, on the other hand, you have a strongly assertive or unusually submissive pet there are some things you should keep in mind:

Working with an assertive puppy

Assertive puppies tend to immediately investigate new people and objects. They are quick to begin play fighting activities with people. When they want to be petted or fed, they are insistent and demanding. These puppies fall easily into the role of family protector because they think the people belong to them. This is well and good, but because dogs cannot really understand human society, there is soon trouble. They may try to defend you from everyone, and biting the UPS man because he invades your yard is not ok. Biting the children is not ok. The most serious problems happen when grandchildren are involved. Perceived either as an outside threat or a competitor, it is not unusual for grandchildren to be badly injured by big assertive dogs.

The training techniques used to establish your teacher-learner relationship are especially important. Remember that your dog will be much happier in the long run if he earns praise and pleasure by obeying you, not by demanding it.

It is especially important for you to be master. Do not allow your dog to nip or bite at you in a friendly way. Do not stimulate your puppy by waving your arms and acting excited or by playing tug of war. Do not become what your puppy perceives to be an equal and competitive playmate.

Working with a submissive puppy

Submissive puppies tend to "shy away" from new people or things, either by lying down or actually running away. It is normal for most puppies to be slightly submissive. They wish for nothing more than to please you and this makes them easy to train.

Teach shy puppies things they can do that will earn your calm, reassuring praise. Try to provide a peaceful environment and a dependable schedule that includes exercise, a daily obedience session, and reliable feeding times.

submissive urination

Most puppies and young dogs have a tendency to urinate in response to new situations, when meeting a stranger, or even when their owners come home and greet them excitedly. This is a sign that your puppy is uncertain about what is expected. Never scold when this happens. Puppy is already trying hard to please. Calmly reassure, ignoring the urination. Clean up later, in private.

fear biting

If puppies don't know what is expected of them, particularly if they are beginning to believe that people are supposed to do what dogs tell them to do, they may react inappropriately to strangers. The puppy is afraid, but psychologically unable to be completely submissive. They usually show signs of fear and try to run away from a threatening situation, but when escape is prevented, they bite. It happens when children insist on petting a frightened dog, and happens at the veterinarian's office. These puppies need the firm leadership and reassurance best achieved through obedience training.

Destructive Chewing

It is natural for puppies to chew--that's one of the ways they explore and learn. Try to keep valuable objects that are chewable safely out of reach and provide a satisfactory alternative like a Nylabone chew toy. Destructive chewing is merely a way to work off excitement and relieve frustration, not an insidious plan to get even with you. Help encourage your puppy to be calm. Be easygoing. Don't encourage tug of war or play that involves chewing and biting.
When you leave home for the day, don't make it into a big deal for the dog. By showing lots of emotion of any sort (threats or cheerfulness, it doesn't matter) you build up emotional stress. This is often vented in destructive chewing. Your last three or four minutes at home should be spent calmly reading or sitting. Then get up and leave, ignoring your puppy completely--don't even say goodbye. Arrive home the same way. Ignore your puppy at first and avoid the area where things are most likely to have been chewed. If things are a mess when you get home, don't let puppy know you care. Behave calmly. Clean up later when your puppy can't watch. Do not build up more stress by scolding--that just makes things worse. Again, work on teaching simple obedience and building the teacher-learner relationship. Puppies need a calm, dependable master.

Chew Treats, Bones and Toys

Don't give your puppy anything small enough to swallow that can't be digested, or things that can be chewed into large indigestible chunks and swallowed.

Chicken bones, rib bones, and pork bones are the most likely to cause trouble. Old gooey rawhide chews or bones from the butcher that have been around for a few days get rotten and stinky and cause diarrhea. If you give things like this (not really a good idea), use good sense. Bones should be too large to swallow and solid enough that they won't be broken up into smaller chunks. Hooves, pig's ears, and miscellaneous semi-digestible treats probably aren't a good idea either, but if you use them be sure they are too large to be swallowed whole, or small enough to go all the way through.

Instead, we suggest using flavored Nylabone or Nylafloss chew toys. If your puppy first learns to prefer bones and rawhide, he probably won't think chew toys are all that great, so use them from the beginning. Nylafloss looks like a big thick chunk of nylon rope. Puppies like it because they can really sink their teeth into the rope, and it helps keep the teeth clean.

HOW TO ADOPT A DOG

HOW TO ADOPT A DOG
1
Research breeds to determine which type of dog best suits your personality and lifestyle. For instance, if you have small children, a small breed with a high-maintenance personality such as a Jack Russell terrier or chihuahua stands a greater likelihood of being injured by or nipping at a child who is too rambunctious. Web sites such as the American Kennel Club (AKC), those for specific breeds or for the local animal shelter will often offer some personality profiles on various breeds to help in your decision.

Step
2
Be prepared to pay a considerable sum if buying a purebred from a breeder. Keep in mind that a purebred very often carries a certain set of characteristics such as hard-and-fast personality traits or health issues. Poodles, for instance, tend to be yappy but love to curl up in your lap. Spaniels may jump up on people, but they are usually playful dogs that are great with kids.

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Check online for rescue organizations in your area. Web sites like PetFinder provide links to rescues and shelters in your area. Rescues have fees that are often much less than a breeder, but their adoption procedures will most likely be more stringent, often requiring a home visit from a rescue volunteer. After all, rescue dogs have most likely been abandoned or surrendered, and the rescue personnel want to make sure the dog is being placed in its forever-home.

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Check the dog pound or shelter (Animal Control) that is usually operated by your city or county. Often times, you can find a real diamond-in-the-rough and the fees are generally low. City shelters often have limited resources and need to find homes for dogs quickly so they do not have to euthanize them. Purebred dogs are sometimes abandoned to the pound, but animal control is also full of loveable mutts.

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Consider how much room you have in your home before you bring a dog into it. If you have a big yard and house, then a larger dog like a Labrador retriever or collie mix might work well for you. Likewise, if you live in an apartment or small house with little or no yard, a smaller lapdog like a miniature schnauzer or llaso apso might be best.

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Take into account how the breed you select might interact with or tolerate your children or another pet in the house. Some breeds like heelers are herding dogs by nature and tend to chase something smaller than themselves, resulting in your kids or cat being corraled around the house or yard. A big floppy dog like an Irish setter is a hunting dog, liking to run and swim and play outdoors, perhaps more suitable for children.

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Bring along a leash or pet carrier (for smaller dogs) when going to pick it up. This is for the animal's safety as well as for your own.

DOG PRODUCTS

DOG BREEDS

Affenpinscher: Of German origin, this little breed's likeness appears in works of art dating to the 15th century. Its name means "monkey terrier," which relates both to its impish, whiskered appearance and to its exuberant personality. More >>

Afghan Hound: With a flowing silky coat and exotic features, the Afghan Hound is the model/actress of the dog world, admired for its beauty, grace and flashy style. More >>

Airedale Terrier: Underneath a tough exterior, the Airedale Terrier has a sweet but dignified nature. It is loyal and protective toward its family, reserved with other people and dogs. More >>

Akbash Dog: A native of Turkey, the Akbash Dog is a striking white flock guard that has made a name for itself on American farms and ranches, where it successfully protects livestock from grizzly and black bears, wolves and coyotes. More >>

Akita: Honored in its native land as a national treasure, the Akita is the largest of the three Japanese breeds belonging to the spitz family of dogs. At one time its ownership was restricted to the nobility, who used the breed to hunt large game such as wild boar and deer. More >>

Alapaha Blue Blood Bulldog: This Georgia-born bulldog takes its name from the Alapaha River region, where it was developed to work livestock and guard property. Alapaha Blue Bloods are possessive and attentive. They're protective of their people and property and establish their territory at a young age. More >>

Alaskan Klee Kai: An extremely rare breed, the Alaskan Klee Kai is a smaller version of the Alaskan Husky; it was designed to be a companion version of the great sled dogs of the north. It was developed in the 1970s by Linda S. Spurlin of Wasilla, Alaska, and her family, and made available to the public in 1988. More >>

Alaskan Malamute: Named for an Inuit tribe, the Mahlemut, this breed is a powerful member of the spitz family of dogs. The Alaskan Malamute has been used to track large game and as a pack and sled dog able to transport heavy loads over rough terrain. More >>

American Bulldog: "Working dog" is an apt description of the American Bulldog. Originally brought to the American South by English working-class immigrants, this breed helped farmers and ranchers with many everyday tasks, such as driving and catching hogs and cattle, and guarding property. More >>

American Eskimo Dog: The Dog Beautiful is an appropriate nickname for this breed, which has a thick, snow-white coat, erect ears and a plumed tail, as well as the square build and wedge-shaped head that mark it as a member of the spitz family. More >>

Affenpinscher Afghan Hound Airedale Terrier
Akita Alaskan Malamute American Eskimo Dog
American Foxhound American Water Spaniel Anatolian Shepherd Dog
Australian Cattle Dog Australian Kelpie Australian Shepherd
Australian Silky Terrier Basenji Basset Hound
Beagle Bearded Collie Beauceron
Bedlington Terrier Belgian Malinois Belgian Sheepdog
Belgian Tevuren Bernese Mountain Dog Bichon Frise
Black and Tan Coonhound Black Russian Terrier Bloodhound
Border Terrier Borzoi Boxer
Boston Terrier Bouvier des Flandres Brussels Griffon
Briard Brittany Spaniel Bullmastiff
Bull Terrier Bulldog Cairn Terrier
Canaan Dog Cavalier King Charles Spaniel Chinese Crested Dog
Chesapeake Bay Retriever Chihuahua Clumber Spaniel
Chow Chow Cocker Spaniel Collie
Curly Coated Retriever Dachshund Dalmatian
Dandie Dinmont Terrier Doberman Pinscher English Foxhound
English Toy Spaniel English Setter English Springer Spaniel
Field Spaniel Finnish Spitz Flat Coated Retriever
French Bulldog Greyhound German Pinscher
German Shepherd Dog German Shorthaired Pointer German Wirehaired Pointer
Giant Schnauzer Glen of Imaal Terrier Golden Retriever
Gorden Setter Great Dane Great Pyrenees
Greater Swiss Mountain Havanese Harrier
Ibizan Hound Irish Setter Irish Terrier
Irish Water Spaniel Irish Wolfhound Italian Greyhound
Jack Russell Japanese Chin Keeshond
Kerry Blue Terrier Komondor Kuvasz
Labrador Retriever Lakeland Terrier Lhasa Apso
Lowchen Maltese Manchester Terrier
Mastiff Miniature Bull Terrier Miniature Pinscher
Miniature Schnauzer Neapolitan Mastiff Newfoundland
Norfolk Terrier Norwich Terrier Old English Sheepdog
Otterhound Papillon Parson Russell Terrier
Pekingese Petit Basset Griffon Vendeen Pharaoh Hound
Pit Bull Terrier Plott Polish Lowland Sheepdog
Pomeranian Poodle Portuguese Water Dog
Pug Puli Rhodesian Ridgeback
Rottweiler Saluki Samoyed
Schipperke Scottish Deerhound Scottish Terrier
Sealyham Terrier Shar Pei Sheltie
Shetland Sheepdog Shitzu Shiba Inu
Siberian Husky Silky Terrier Skye Terrier
Smooth Fox Terrier Spinone Italiano St. Bernard
Staffordshire Terrier Sussex Spaniel Swedish Vallhund
Tibetan Terrier Tibetan Mastiff Tibetan Spaniel
Toy Fox Terrier Vizsla Weimereiner
Welsh Corgi Welsh Springer Spaniel Welsh Terrier
Westhighland Terrier Wheaten Terrier Whippet
Wire Fox Terrier Wirehaired Pointing Griffon Yorkshire Terrier
FUNNY DOG PICTURES LINKS
Designer Dogs / Hybrid Dogs
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